Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Hooray!!

I was going to wait till we had some photos to post (camera battery is dead) before I broke the news, but I became impatient. Yesterday, September 29th we reached Canada at about 8am, and finished the Pacific Crest Trail 8 miles later.

Now, we are staying in Seattle with my dear friend Joe, who I haven't seen in 3 years. Joe has been quite busy here in Seattle saving the world, or at least some parts of it.

More in a bit...

Thursday, September 25, 2008

I change my mind...

After the last 5 days, I need to retract a statement. The PCT is difficult!

We have been fearing the snows in the North Cascades on our final push to Canada. We've also been a bit worried about the infamous "blowdown" section, where segments of the trail have been obliterated by storms, avalanches, and fallen old-growth trees. This section is also supposed to be second only to the High Sierra in difficulty (think: up 3000 feet, down 2000 feet, up 2000 feet, etc).

All these factors came together in the last few days. Cold rain, freezing rain, hail, snow, and windy, foggy alpine conditions plus climbing up and down steep slopes over a tangle of broken branches and giant (8+ feet wide) logs past 11 PM to get to flat (wet) ground for camping.

First, I was thinking it made for some pretty miserable hiking. But then, I just pretended it was some kind of crazy hardcore military-style wilderness survival training trip. From that angle, it didn't seem so bad. Basically, the 100-mile section can be summed up well by a quote from Michelle: "I want to be teleported out of here."

We heard on the radio that one thru-hiker busted her ankle and is being, or has been, helicoptered out. Everyone emerging out of the wilderness into this resupply town looks pretty worn, wet, and knackered.

I'm never using a down sleeping bag again; mine turned into a wet rag. The image of a wet towel is not an exaggeration. I also discovered that the most important piece of survival equipment is a bag of candy bars. I was my own constantly eating, shivering backcountry drier. Calories are units of heat afterall I guess.

Michelle's synthetic bag fared much better, and stayed warm even when damp. One night we both ended up inside of it. The next night, after I was still awake chomping and shivering at 3 AM, we zipped the two bags together and put hers on top like a quilt and mine on bottom over our pads (since there was no loft anyways). We both ended up warmer that way. The best idea we had was to get neoprene socks, overmitts, and pack covers right before this section- hallelujah!

This section was also a good excuse for making fires! Starting a good fire with wet wood is always challenging and fun.

Did I mention mice chewed their way through our tent wall and got into our tent two nights in a row. If only I could catch the little guys.. I bet they would've been delicious....

But all that is behind us now! Today we find ourselves in the "town" of Stehekin. This small community is accessible only by plane, boat, or a long hike. The weather looks good for the next section, and we are only a mere 4 days to Canada. Moreover, we will soon be on the eastern (dry) side of the Northern Cascades crest.

Last night, we ate dinner with 7 other thru-hikers: Six, Spaceman Spiff, Brent, Kim, Detour, Gazelle, and Snow Kittens. Some of these folks we have seen now and then over the last 5 months. Others we have just met. So many people have left the trail since we started. And many of our co-travelers have already made it to the end days ago. But making it to the end is not yet a sure thing, even now. After hiking more than 2700 miles, and never even hitching into towns, Evan (the Fugitive) injured his knee and left the trail only two days from the end.

Hopefully we will post some pictures soon. Now I'm off to get something I've been dreaming about- Bacon!

Friday, September 19, 2008

From Skykomish

Just to show we haven't been THAT lazy, here are some things we've done while hiking the Pacific Crest Trail:
read about 3 books and 12 scientific papers
applied for a scholarship
published a paper
learned several new species of plants and animals
won an award at an academic meeting
climbed several technical routes and a couple mts (including the highest peak in the continental USA)
taken Katy Griffin on her first backpacking trip
conducted tests on the durability on 8 models of trail running footwear (and gear)
solved all sorts of philosophical problems with pseudo-profound BS

The Surprisingly Good Gear We Used
Here's a list of what surprised us in how well it performed-

I expect any electrical equipment to give us problems in the outdoors. But our camera, a Casio Exilim, fit in my chest pocket, took great photos, and the battery lasted virtually forever.

My 15 dollar (yes, 15$) Frogg Toggs jacket was completely waterproof and breathable, and kept me drier than Michelle's expensive gore-tex jacket. I didn't believe it either from how it looks on the website.

Both our packs worked very well. Michelle used a ULA, and I used a Granite Gear vapour trail. I expected mine to get holes, but nope.

While at first uncomfortable, my Brooks Cascadia running shoes have been going strong for almost 800 miles now and look like they will take me to the end.

More later...

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Update:

Michelle is the cat's pajamas.

aches and pains

My body's been hurting lately, but I know it will ease up soon. It always does. Bad weather gets better, pain goes away, wet socks dry.
I don't know what I've learned about myself on this trail but I have had an explosive swelling of appreciation for kindness and altruism, for all the friends and family and strangers who support us. Seems I write about this more than anything else, but it truly overwhelms me and I want to express my gratitude, even though words fall short.
Every day we see such incredible things, tiny and huge. Ants milking aphids on a flower stem, a herd of elk bounding away, water over bright green moss, huckleberries running wild over a decade-old clearcut. Beautiful things, strange things, sometimes ugly things. How lucky we are to see all of this. We are so fortunate.

Michelle

more from Snoqualmie


Near Old Snowy Mt.
Mount Rainier looms in the background.


A decorative cairn




Enviropyro crosses a log bridge






Equestrian vehicle remains in the Goat Rocks wilderness



oh, oops. I forgot to mention stuff about the trail. Washington has been fabulous so far. I loved the Goat Rocks Wilderness especially. and the weather has been beautiful. yep- everything is peachy. not much to say. im tired... hopefully Michelle will write somthing coherent tomorrow.

Monday, September 15, 2008

At Snoqualmie Pass

I was planning what I was going to write in my next blog post while hiking. I even wrote a bit of it down on some scrap paper while taking a break. But now, that I'm actually sitting at a computer, Michelle is asleep, I have no idea where that scrap paper is, and I have nothing interesting to say. Hrrmmph...

Someone said we are 90% done with the trail. I'm not really wanting to be finished yet, but I am excited about what comes next. I'd like to see some friends out west, do a bit of climbing. Then, after a week or so, I jump back into my bat stuff. There's a conference in October... some data analysis... *lots* of writing... I'm pretty psyched about starting my Ph.D. next fall and about working at the Biodome in Montreal this winter. I better enjoy the feeling of infinite potential while it lasts... Everything seems blissful at the moment.

I am extraordinarily lucky. It boggles my mind. For most people- indeed, most living things- life is a harsh struggle for survival. Somehow, by some astonishing miracle of blind chance, I happened to be born into a situation where food, water, and shelter are essentially a given. I live in prosperous times, among amazingly altruistic people, in the wealthiest part of the world. I have never really suffered or endured any kind of extreme hardship. I've never experienced war or torture or real hunger. I'm one of the richest people in the world in at least one important way, which is this: if I had a billion dollars, the things I do, my life, would not change in any significant way. I would still study vampire bats. I would still be hiking this trail. I would still be eating rice krispy treats. And to top it off, I'm stupendously lucky to have a mind that allows me to bask in the glory of all this good fortune. I can look around and really appreciate it. "Behold! ... Holy crap, this is sweet!"

Speaking of holy crap, it's hard not to get all "religiousy" when you're on this trail. If I had to describe the Pacific Crest Trail in 3 words they would be "beauty, beauty, beauty". The distance from Mexico to Canada is about 1500 miles by car, but the trail takes nearly 2700 miles to do the same job. This is because it seeks out every bit of lovely mountain scenery along the way. It snakes along crests and crosses (according to one website): 40 designated Wilderness areas, 24 National Forests, 7 National Parks, 3 State Parks, 19 major canyons and 57 mountain passes. This thin ribbon runs through almost every kind of ecosystem in the west, both by gaining and losing altitude and by gaining latitude . Moreover, it attracts some pretty interesting people. And even better, there's cool animals. We saw an owl today. And two people we've talked to now have seen mountain lions. Of course, I always freak out when even one bat flies by.

On a less dramatic note, I need to dispel a myth about the PCT. Hiking the PCT is NOT difficult. School is difficult. Work is hard. Relationships are tough. Being a good person- another tricky one. Trying to figure out game-theoretic models and mathematical rules for evolutionary stable strategies... difficult. Making money, responsibility, supporting kids, etc-- these are the kinds of things that everybody seems to somehow figure out, but which seem really hard to me. I don't know how they do it. But then these same people say to us: "wow, that's really inspiring that you're hiking the PCT. What a challenge!" Well.... It's just walking on a well-graded trail and eating lots of food. I hate to ruin everybody's idea that it's really challenging, but it's the easiest 5 month project I've ever worked on. It's easier than elementary school, or high school, or college, or my masters. It's easier than my Eagle project from Boy Scouts. It's easier than any sort of work where you have to wake up early. It's not really any work at all. What is work? I think what we call "work" is actually *stress*. It's the anxiety of not doing as much as you hoped or the worry of failure or disappointing others. There's very little stress on the PCT. Even if we don't finish, so what? Nothing we are doing here is ending up on our permanent record or our curriculum vitae. Nobody cares about our performance. And yet, at the same time, people support us. It's quiet unbelievable. Life is rarely like that.

I'm not sure where I'm going in all this weird rambling. I guess I just wanted to write *something*. Maybe what I'm trying to say is that this whole thing hasn't been what I expected. I thought it would be a big challenge. In a way, it is. But it's also made me feel like challenges are mental illusions. There's only a challenge when you stop and think about what you have to do. The rest of the time, you're just putting one foot in front of the other. And walking is quite enjoyable actually.

I hope that I enjoy my PhD in the same way. I'm really looking forward to it. Thanks to everybody who has helped make my life so rich and fulfilling. If you scroll down this blog, you'll mainly see a list of friends, relatives, and relative strangers who have helped us so much along the way so far. People who have fed us, clothed us, housed us, and lifted our spirits. I'm not sure how to deal with my overwhelming sense of appreciation.

Lastly, I want to say that hiking with Michelle has been the greatest. First of all, she is one tough cookie. It's also nice to hike with someone who is so patient, tolerant, smart, cheerful, and can somehow make 150 slightly different versions of corn pasta with dried veggies.

Well, I guess I managed to say something, even without my scrap paper.

I hope it made sense and that you enjoyed reading it. Actually, I guess that first part isn't important.

--Gerald

Friday, September 5, 2008

Hello from Washington

Coming down from Mt. Hood with the corresponding change in pressure, my right ear became plugged up, and hasn't completely recovered yet after a couple of days, some serous otitis media apparently. Michelle was feeling a bit sick recently, but now seems to be feeling better. I think it must be a combination of visiting Portland, a city with lots of people (and hence germs), and having trail-conditioned (i.e. weak) immune systems. The very cold rainy days in Oregon couldn't have helped either. Luckily, we have new warm clothes and have some goodies arriving soon in the mail, including neoprene socks and overmitts.

Big thanks to fellow PCT hiker Vanity Fair for taking us to resupply, letting us stay at her home, and generally being a second mom to us. Also a big thanks to the Weinheimers for taking us into their home and stuffing our bellies with pizza. We are glad we ran into Mrs. Weinheimer while she was walking her dog.