I change my mind...

After the last 5 days, I need to retract a statement. The PCT is difficult!

We have been fearing the snows in the North Cascades on our final push to Canada. We've also been a bit worried about the infamous "blowdown" section, where segments of the trail have been obliterated by storms, avalanches, and fallen old-growth trees. This section is also supposed to be second only to the High Sierra in difficulty (think: up 3000 feet, down 2000 feet, up 2000 feet, etc).

All these factors came together in the last few days. Cold rain, freezing rain, hail, snow, and windy, foggy alpine conditions plus climbing up and down steep slopes over a tangle of broken branches and giant (8+ feet wide) logs past 11 PM to get to flat (wet) ground for camping.

First, I was thinking it made for some pretty miserable hiking. But then, I just pretended it was some kind of crazy hardcore military-style wilderness survival training trip. From that angle, it didn't seem so bad. Basically, the 100-mile section can be summed up well by a quote from Michelle: "I want to be teleported out of here."

We heard on the radio that one thru-hiker busted her ankle and is being, or has been, helicoptered out. Everyone emerging out of the wilderness into this resupply town looks pretty worn, wet, and knackered.

I'm never using a down sleeping bag again; mine turned into a wet rag. The image of a wet towel is not an exaggeration. I also discovered that the most important piece of survival equipment is a bag of candy bars. I was my own constantly eating, shivering backcountry drier. Calories are units of heat afterall I guess.

Michelle's synthetic bag fared much better, and stayed warm even when damp. One night we both ended up inside of it. The next night, after I was still awake chomping and shivering at 3 AM, we zipped the two bags together and put hers on top like a quilt and mine on bottom over our pads (since there was no loft anyways). We both ended up warmer that way. The best idea we had was to get neoprene socks, overmitts, and pack covers right before this section- hallelujah!

This section was also a good excuse for making fires! Starting a good fire with wet wood is always challenging and fun.

Did I mention mice chewed their way through our tent wall and got into our tent two nights in a row. If only I could catch the little guys.. I bet they would've been delicious....

But all that is behind us now! Today we find ourselves in the "town" of Stehekin. This small community is accessible only by plane, boat, or a long hike. The weather looks good for the next section, and we are only a mere 4 days to Canada. Moreover, we will soon be on the eastern (dry) side of the Northern Cascades crest.

Last night, we ate dinner with 7 other thru-hikers: Six, Spaceman Spiff, Brent, Kim, Detour, Gazelle, and Snow Kittens. Some of these folks we have seen now and then over the last 5 months. Others we have just met. So many people have left the trail since we started. And many of our co-travelers have already made it to the end days ago. But making it to the end is not yet a sure thing, even now. After hiking more than 2700 miles, and never even hitching into towns, Evan (the Fugitive) injured his knee and left the trail only two days from the end.

Hopefully we will post some pictures soon. Now I'm off to get something I've been dreaming about- Bacon!